The Lions of Qasr Al-Nil

One of the most memorable images of the January 25 revolution in Egypt is the surge of crowds towards security forces on Qasr Al-Nil bridge which connects the island of Zamalek to Cairo’s center – Tahrir Square. On January 28 – what came to be known as the ‘Day of Rage’ – a group of protesters, numbering thousands, clashed with Central Security forces for hours. Their aim was to join other columns of protesters coming from other directions towards the city’s main square. For hours a back and forth clash ensued between these opposing forces. A scene that will remain seared in our nations consciousness are protesters, bowing in prayer while they were being attacked with water canons aiming at dispersing them. Ultimately, the security forces retreated and the protesters joined their brothers and sisters in Tahrir.

Clearly these were emotional moments – more so because of the history of the bridge which dates back to 1873, and the continuous role it has played in Egypt’s evolution into a modern nation. Chafiq Hamamsy, in a book dealing with the history of the island of Zamalek, titled “Zamalek: the changing life of a Cairo elite, 1850-1945” describes the history of the bridges linking this island, to Cairo proper. According to Hamamsy there were three bridges, two on the eastern shore – Qasr Al-Nil, and Abu El-ela – and one on the eastern shore, Badi’a Masabny or the Englishmen’s bridge (Kubri al-Inglizi). Qasr Al-Nil was built in 1933, replacing an older narrow causeway built in 1872. Described as being the most beautiful of all the bridges, it has an elegant steel structure decorated by lampposts, which “shimmered over the Nile like a bride on her wedding night.”

Distinguishing the bridge further are four bronze lions, standing guard to both entrances. They were initially designed by a Frenchman to be displayed alongside Mohamed Ali’s statue in Alexandria, but a decision was made to locate them to Cairo instead. And they have been standing there since – close to 140 years.

This bridge was initially named Khedive Ismail in honor of the father of King Fouad, who presided over the opening on June 6th, 1933, in a ceremony that was held on the Zamelek side and attended by many notable foreign figures. The name was changed following the 1952 revolution – as was customary at the time – to Qasr Al-Nil, or ‘Palace on the Nile.’

Given its centrality it was witness to many momentous occasions, which occurred in the city’s long and distinguished history. For example, during the events leading up to the 1952 revolution, crowds surged through the bridge in order to reach the Egyptian parliament. Moreover, it figured prominently during the funeral of Gamal Abd el-Nasser, Egypt’s former president, as thousands of people walked behind his coffin.

Yet the bridge has acquired over the years another important dimension – namely a social space were weary Cairene’s can enjoy the Nile breeze without having to enter into one of the exclusive clubs that have sprung up on its shores. This becomes particularly evident at night – and especially in the summer months – when this traffic choked artery turns into a large pedestrian hangout. In an article in the Los Angeles Times titled “Cairo’s bridge of dreams” the writer describes in great detail how the bridge has in fact become a meeting place of sorts for couples seeking to find a legitimate meeting place. In a city crowded with people the significance of such places is hard to measure.

In a sign of the importance of this setting, the well-known novel “Yaqoubian Building” by Alaa al-Aswany, featured on its original cover a picture of the building which forms the central character of the novel. Yet when it was translated into English, the cover showed a couple, from the back, standing on the bridge and gazing across the Nile. The scene evokes Cairo, without any of its memorable landmarks.

Indeed, just by standing on the bridge and looking across the river one can see some of the city’s most significant buildings – the Nile Hilton, what used to be the National Party Headquarters, the Egyptian Museum, the Cairo Tower and from a distance the Radio & TV building. Sites that have become very familiar to many people in recent days. On January 28, the bridge added another event in which it played a major role – which brings me back to the lions.

In their silence they have been witness to a great many upheavals. Passing next to them one wonders what they might be thinking – and if they were to speak what would they say? They have seen fights, bloodshed, sorrow but also happiness. Looking into their inscrutable gaze one cannot help but think that they must be smiling now. Their patience has borne fruit.

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